March Mania Preliminary Seven: Ben — Rolex, Grand Seiko, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Konstantin Chaykin, And More…
Welcome, one and all, to the preliminary round of March Mania 2021, here on Fratello. Are you a watch maniac like we are? If so, you’re sure to love our month-long feature. 96 watches reviewed last year line up for a battle royale like nothing that’s gone before. We need your votes. We want your comments. Help us decide the champion and share in its glory! Let the games commence…
In this round, your task is simple: vote for your favorite watch. Below you will find a selection of 12 timepieces that we covered here on Fratello throughout 2020. Why not refresh your memory by clicking the links and reading those eruditely penned odes to wrist-wear? Once you’ve made your selection, vote using the poll form below. Every vote counts because only the top eight will make it through to the next round.
Login to your Fratello profile and drop us a comment. Who did you vote for and why? What’s your prediction for the later rounds? Will the Omega Speedmaster 321 triumph once again… Who knows? You decide!
Omega Seamaster 300 “Spectre”
Reminiscing of another longstanding competition is the Seamaster 300 “Spectre” edition reference 233.32.41.21.01.001. Yes, during our Bond mini-series on Sunday Morning Showdown, this silver-screen legend overcame the new Bond Diver 300M from the eagerly anticipated No Time To Die. Fratello member, Dario, summed it up in his comment on that article:
“The new 12-hour bezel design was fitting for a globetrotter as Bond. Missing the 12 on the dial was a tribute to the Big Triangle models. And the Lolipop seconds hand, which is especially popular with collectors, gives the watch an extra vintage look. Through all these changes, every glance at the Spectre brings back memories of Omega’s history as well as James Bond. For me, the Omega Seamaster 300 ‘Spectre’ is not only the ultimate Bond watch but also the ultimate Seamaster.” — Dario
Rolex Milgauss 116400GV
Another Showdown victor from our anti-magnetism fisticuff, and again, it was my choice that won the fight. I know I’m not modest here, but let’s say I am a sore winner. As I exalted the Milgauss with feverish passion in the SMS last year, I have cherry-picked two great reader comments from that article:
“I love the Milgauss for being the quirky, rebellious cousin within the more conservative Rolex family. The Milgauss is that guy who wears a funky green suit and orange loafers without socks to a summer garden party while everyone else is dressed in white.” — Marc Schmitz
Fantastic description, Marc, and I can already picture that type of person. The “GV” is an acronym for Glace Verte, or Green Ice en Anglais, which describes the superb green-tinted sapphire crystal on the Milgauss. Combined with the zirconium blue (Z-blue) dial and orange lightning seconds hand, it’s a gloriously potent concoction. Paul put it so well in his comment that I had to include this here:
“I mean, first of all, that gorgeous and somehow scientific-looking green crystal of the Milgauss clinches it all on its own. It’s just so…nifty! But it probably wouldn’t work so awesomely well without the rest of the color palette — that rich but not-too-dark, blue sunburst, and the bright orange accents. The whole thing is just fresh and alive.” — Paul
Grand Seiko SBGN005
Yes, another Sunday Morning Showdown contestant, but this Grand Seiko quartz GMT was not a winner, unlike the previous two. Unceremoniously, it was beaten by the Rolex Explorer II in the first GMT wars — by a mere 72 votes. In the follow-up GMT Wars Part Deux, I noticed the votes had swung in favor of the Grand Seiko while only now tying the polls at 50-50.
I still feel the 9F86 movement within the SBGN005 was short-changed at a shot at victory. Combining the independently adjustable hour hand, otherwise known as a “true” GMT, was no easy feat with a precise ticking seconds hand. But even more challenging was the instant date change alongside the shifting GMT hand. On top of that is an accuracy guarantee of ten seconds per year. Whoever says there is no master-craftmanship in quartz needs to understand this caliber conundrum took 25 years to overcome. All within a stainless steel case that some may say is derivative of the Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570. But then again, the Explorer II design is derivative of the Glycine Airman.
Fears Brunswick Salmon
My first watch in this list from a hands-on review is the Fears Brunswick Salmon. This little diddy was an absolute peach to wear when accompanying me on holiday decorating in December. The copper tones stand out, but looking closer is the finishing types’ variance from the main dial to the subsidiary seconds. This Salmon is the best addition to the Brunswick range thus far in combination with the vintage-style cushion case and supple Bristol leather strap.
Vertex Bronze 75
Marking the 75th occasion of VE day last year was the very handsome Vertex Bronze 75. Essentially mimicking the M100 (based on one of the original Dirty Dozen watches), the Bronze 75 changes tack by employing bronze as a case material. This creates a watch that patinas over time with a unique character. For me, it was a chance to remember my late grandfather and his contribution as an RAF navigator on a Lancaster bomber during the Second World War. It was also my most prolonged exposure to bronze watches, which eventually led me to procure an Oris two-tone bronze Sixty-Five.
Oris Aquis Calibre 400
Last summer in the UK, the government eased restrictions so that non-essential shops could open. This allowed me to visit one of my favorite watch shops in London, the Oris Boutique on South Molton Street. I was welcomed to experience a virtual look inside the movement of the new Calibre 400 with an Oculus VR headset. I was impressed and soon bought my own Oculus Quest 2 headset. The animated mechanism was also outstanding, but I could only spend a slither of time with the store’s actual watch.
The Calibre 400 winds and sets with a satisfying and reassuring ratchet click.
Later on, I spent some hands-on time with the Aquis Calibre 400 and compared it with my Aquis Great Barrier Reef III. I still love my GBR3 but curse the 38 hours of power reserve. Not only does the Calibre 400 increase this to 120 hours, but it winds and sets so lovely and crisp when squaring up against the Sellita-propelled Aquis. It was much harder to test the accuracy, and in all fairness, the Sellita SW200-1 in the Aquis GBR3 is one of my most reliable timekeepers. But the anti-magnetism of the Calibre 400 gives me much greater peace of mind. I wish the Aquis Calibre 400 dial wowed me as the Great Barrier Reef III did.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
When talking about dials that not only wowed me but positively blew my mind, I have to mention this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar. The Ultra-Thin name is a bit of a misnomer, as it felt no thinner than a high-end sports watch. But this Vacheron Caliber 1120 QPSQ is self-winding with one of the top echelons of complications, the Perpetual Calendar. Yet, the watch case still maintains a thickness of 8.10mm. It may not have been the most expensive watch I went hands-on with, yet the deep blue dial with hints of pink gold oozed ultra-luxury. Pairing with a full pink gold bracelet that is interchangeable via a quick release to a blue leather and rubber straps is a pastime that would not get old.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 “Frecce Tricolori”
Now comes my personal favorite on this list. The Breitling Chronomat 42 “Frecce Tricolori.” I wrote up the initial announcement for the new-look Chronomat. Then came the hands-on review, which also led to an appearance in Sunday Morning Showdown.
The Watch Annual
But perhaps my proudest contribution was the above inclusion in The Watch Annual book by Justin Hast. Below you can see my passage from this book:
“Launched in 1984, the original Chronomat looked like a prop from Rambo. The bullet crown, the gun-belt bracelet, and prominent rider tabs on the bezel. This was a rugged, macho timepiece built for the wrists of muscle-bound action stars of the decade.
The new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 is not a direct homage or part of the ‘capsule’ collection that recreates old Breitling watches. Instead, the Chronomat takes what it needs from the ’80s to revitalize a model that had lost its core concept.
I also much preferred the tone-on-tone blue dial of the Frecce Tricolori edition. I can imagine the panda dials will be popular, but it was the subtle reference to the 1983 Frecce Tricolori that kickstarted my love for the Chronomat in the first place.”
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph ref. Q1538530
The JLC Master Control chronograph is one of the most clinically brilliant designs from the Vallée de Joux. Maintaining a level of restraint for a chronograph is a challenging task. Any slight alteration in the sub-dial spacing or scales can upset the carefully balanced proportions. This MC Chrono is unfortunately no longer in production. However, it made its way into one of my Pre-Owned Picks selections of cool chronographs.
Seiko Diver SKX009
The Seiko SKX009 is one of the earliest watches I bought, as an experiment at the time. In my teens, I already had a Seiko SND419P1, which I dearly loved. But I found it was the time to dip my toes in the snapping turtle pond of mechanical watches. The SKX009 seemed the logical step up to experience balance wheel regulation. It was at least eye-opening in justifying why watches from Rolex, Omega, and Breitling cost as much as they do. Without hacking seconds or hand-winding and having less than reliable accuracy, it at least gave me the impetus to smash and bash it around it and test its durability.
Which is much like the treatment Robert Redford gave the watch in the stellar lost-at-sea movie, All Is Lost (2013). I covered the watch in my infrequent by enjoyable watches in film series.
Konstantin Chaykin Dracula
This Dracula version of the Wristmon by Konstantin Chaykin suffered my worst dad-joke in last year’s Pre-Owned Picks Halloween special. Not a lot of people got it either. The joke was:
“The Konstantin Chaykin Dracula has the best anti-reflective coating on the sapphire that money can buy.”
A trait of vampires is that their reflection does not appear in mirrors; therefore, they are anti-reflective. Anti-reflective coating, or AR-coating, is typically applied to sapphire crystals. I know, it’s lame, and the fact I had to explain it further only makes it more embarrassing. Cool watch, though.
Blancpain Air Command
Last but not least is the Blancpain Air Command. I valiantly fought its case to no avail against the Breguet Type XXI. Yet still, I couldn’t shake its hold on me. The straight-laced chronograph manages to bridge the gap between vintage re-edition and luxury style — props to the designers for infusing aviation themes within the construction. For instance, the rotor resembles the propeller on an aircraft.
So now it’s over to you! We want your votes but we also want to hear your thoughts. Better still, by sharing them with us, you’ll put yourself in the running to win either a LIC leather watch strap or (drum roll, please), the HAMILTON INTRA-MATIC AUTO CHRONO. Yes, that’s right, as Karina detailed in her post, we will be giving away one of Hamilton’s most popular models for one lucky commenter. How do you win? Comment on the March Mania tournament as often as you can, engaging with other readers, helping to create a happy community atmosphere. The best contribution will be handsomely rewarded, so what are you waiting for? Let your voice be heard!
